I know Italy is filled with beautiful cities, but there is one place I keep going back to every single year. I visit every February, and at this point, it has become a tradition for my wife and me. In my opinion, it is the best city in the country, and nothing else comes close.

It’s a breathtaking but underrated gem with a surprising English connection, amazing food and barely any tourists in winter. That is one of the biggest reasons I return in February – Genoa simply doesn’t suffer from overtourism at this time of year. Temperatures even reach around 16C, and on most days you get constant sunshine. It’s the perfect winter escape.

Genoa sits on the Ligurian coast in Northern Italy. Official figures suggest the city attracts around three million visitors a year, but that number does not reflect what it feels like on the ground. 

As a major port, many people only pass through on cruise ships and never spend proper time in the city itself. Once you step away from the cruise terminal, Genoa feels calm, authentic and relaxed, especially in February.

The city has everything from mountain hikes and sea views to hidden neighbourhoods and quiet beaches. 

One of the most fascinating places is the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno. The cemetery is so big it has its own bus, and the statues and tombs look more like churches and castles. You can walk around for hours and still feel like you’ve only seen a fraction of it.

The hills around Genoa offer some of the best views in Italy, including a stunning lookout over Stadio Luigi Ferraris, home to both Genoa CFC and Sampdoria.

There are also the city’s historic forts scattered across the mountains that have been turned into small museums.

What’s more, there are many castles all over the city and entry usually costs around £5, which makes them easy places to visit even on short trips.

One of those castles is Castello D’Albertis, which offers breathtaking views of the city.

Genoa also has deep ties to England. Genoa CFC, founded by British expatriates in 1893, is the oldest active football club in Italy. 

Its first president was Charles De Grave Sells, and Sir Charles Payton was one of its early patrons.

James Richardson Spensley, a doctor from London, also helped the team win six league titles in the late 19th century. 

Even today, Genoa FC’s badge carries the English flag. I’ve become a big supporter myself, although as a Tottenham fan, singing “You’ll Never Walk Alone”, one of Genoa’s anthems, is still a strange experience.

Genoa is also a place full of fascinating history. Christopher Columbus was born in Genoa, and reminders of him are everywhere. His childhood home is open to visitors, and the airport is named after him, too.

But for many people, the best reason to visit Genoa is pesto. The city claims to be the pesto capital of the world, and after tasting the real thing, you understand why.

The colour is brighter, the flavour richer, and the freshness is something you rarely find outside the city. Genoa even lets passengers take pesto jars through airport security if they donate €0.50 to Flying Angels, a children’s medical charity.

Il Genovese, a small restaurant in the city centre, is famous for serving what many consider the best pesto in Italy. Last year, my wife and I ate nothing but pesto dishes when we went for Valentine’s Day, and we plan to go again this February.

Genoa is also easy and inexpensive to reach. You can fly directly with Ryanair from London Stansted, often for under £20 one way, and the flight takes about two hours.

In my eyes, Genoa is still Italy’s most underrated city. It’s peaceful, beautiful and full of character. And with 16C sunshine in February and no crowds, I’ll happily keep going back every year.