The new Channel Five adaptation of All Creatures Great and Small has got many of us yearning for the sorts of landcapes in James Herriot’s masterpiece—think windswept moors, crackling fires, rosy-cheeked walkers, pints of ale, and generous slabs of roast beef drenched in proper gravy.

So, inspired by a viral TikTok, I planned a trip up the Pennines to the actual pub that stood in for the Drover’s Arms in the hit TV adaptation. 

Nestled in the picturesque village of Hardraw, the 13th-century Green Dragon Inn, with its flagstone floors, oak beams, and smoky hearth, feels like it’s been hewn from the very heart of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. It’s no wonder it was sought out by the filmmakers as the quintessential country boozer. In the first episode, it’s here that Herriot gets his introduction to rural life.

So, with walking boots on and the dogs packed into the van, I set out to sample this idyllic landscape—and, of course, those legendary Sunday roasts.

But nothing could have prepared me for the amazing surprise I discovered before even stepping inside.

The place has its own waterfall! Yes, waterfall. As pub amenities go, it’s certainly up there with the most impressive I’ve ever found.

Nestled beneath the towering crags of Great Shunner Fell, the Green Dragon pub sits directly on The Pennine Way, with Hardraw Force, England’s highest single drop waterfall, literally in its backyard. This is no mere trickle either; it’s a sight to behold and England’s highest single drop waterfall.

Movie enthusiasts might even recognise it as the spot where Kevin Costner took a nude dip in the 1991 Hollywood hit Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. (Regrettably, I left my Lincoln green bycocket and bow and arrow at home, so I refrained from taking the plunge myself).

The pub, which has recently reopened after a £250,000 refurbishment, charges a £4 fee to view the waterfall, a fact that initially shocked this thrifty Lancastrian.

However, having paid, I can genuinely say it’s worth every penny (if only to contribute to its maintenance). Accessed via a cafe behind the pub, there are two routes around the site.

One leads you right up to – and even behind, if you dare – Hardraw Force, while the other takes you to the top. The latter offers a pleasant stroll through the Dales countryside, but the waterfall isn’t as visible, making the lower walk the more scenic option.

We tried both and thoroughly enjoyed them. If you’re up for a more challenging hike, you could add the Hawes Circular or parts of the Pennine Way, but by then, my roast dinner was beckoning.

After taking in the breathtaking views, it was time to retreat indoors for a pint and some food. The 700 year old pub, with its ancient wooden beams, stone-flagged floors and roaring fires, is easy to understand why it was selected as the interior of The Drover’s Arms in All Creatures Great and Small.

For any die-hard fans, note that the exterior shots were filmed at The Devonshire, just up the road in Grassington, while The King’s Arms in Askrigg was used in the original series. Sounds like an excellent pub crawl opportunity, if you ask me.

However, I didn’t have the time, as the roast dinner had already been ordered.

At £17.95 for three thick slices of perfectly cooked roast beef, mash, roast veg, ample gravy and a Yorkshire pudding the size of a baby’s head, it was pure bliss. All washed down with a pint of Theakston’s bitter by the fire.

You really can’t get better than that!

A quick glance at TripAdvisor indicates that this pub has experienced some highs and lows in recent years. However, since being taken over this year by the owner of the famous Tan Hill Pub, it appears things are moving in the right direction.

I certainly had no complaints. For country pubs offering good walks and stunning views, you really can’t do much better.

THE GREEN DRAGON INN

WHERE: Bellow Hill, Hardraw, Hawes DL8 3LZ.

HOURS: 11am-late daily.

FOOD: Mon-Thurs 11.30am-4.30 – 5.30pm-8.30pm; Fri-Sun 11.30am-9pm.